The neighborhood let out a collective groan when, over the summer, Chick’s announced that it was closing. But the good news came with its replacement, The Good King Tavern—this excellent little brasserie with chef Paul Lyons (a graduate of Barbuzzo and Jamonera) in the kitchen. Fans of Chick’s cocktail program will be pleased to know that the list here features drinks like the Sazerac, Aviation and French 75, and there’s a wine list filled with relative bargains. Lyons’s menu is small and unambitious, but that’s okay. The octopus will make you forget about neighboring Dmitri’s, and the substantial $15 steak frites is understandably an early hit. And when your server tries to sell you on the crispy chickpea flatbread as a starter, just say yes.
The Good King Tavern [Foobooz]
First appeared in the February, 2014 issue of Philadelphia magazine.