If Pizzeria Vetri had opened five years ago, Marc Vetri’s Fairmount pizzeria might have been greeted with a parade on par with what the World Champion Phillies received. But in 2013, excellent pizza abounds in Philly. Our children know to check for leoparding spots and blister marks on their slices. Bufala mozzarella and crushed San Marzano tomatoes have us yawning in complacency (like a 2010 Phillies fan). Yes, our pizza scene has come a long way, and on any given day, one of a half-dozen spots might pull the best pizza in town out of its wood-fired oven. But Pizzeria Vetri is certainly in that mix, and as part of Vetri’s stable of restaurants, it certainly has access to great ingredients. Fresh basil pops here. The fennel in the sausage provides a slightly sweet snap. But when you come to Pizzeria Vetri, get the specialty items, like the rotolo—a savory relative of the cinnamon roll that layers pizza dough, mortadella, fresh ricotta and pistachios in a seductive starter you won’t want to share. Combine this with a slice of Roman-style pizza al taglio and a glass of draft wine, and you’ve concocted a winning team—certainly way better than what the Phillies put together this season.
1939 Callowhill Street