Trey Popp pays a visit to Pennsylvania 6 to see if it can exorcise the ghosts of tenants past.
Creativity rules the raw bar in the form of outstanding crudos, like kampachi with gooseberry salsa and unusually aromatic cumin salt, or dilly sockeyewith fennel and pickled mustard seeds. But simplicity delivers equal pleasures, as in the good Vermont burrata chef Plessis has the self-discipline to just serve as-is, with grilled baguette points and sun-driedtomato tapenade. Or dynamite fried soft shell crabs with classic lemon aioli. Or a lobster roll that rocks precisely because Plessis adheres to the time-tested template and puts his signature instead on the dip for his duck fat fries: a sherry vinegar aioli, heady with shaved truffles.
Two-and-a-half-stars: Very Good
Creative, Simple Bistro Fare At Pennsylvania 6 [Philadelphia magazine]