Craig LaBan visits haute chef gone rustic, Matt Ridgway at his country restaurant, The Pass. LaBan calls the Rosemont, New Jersey BYOB “one of the region’s best destination dining bargains.”
[S]o many of the brilliant touches here – enriching the red wine shellfish sauce for the lobster with earthy chicken livers; the cocoa-steeped agrodolce grapes that add juicy depth to the octopus terrine; the Roquefort glaze that lends transformative piquance to banana bread; a sweet-tart eggplant chutney that gives an exotic tang to the foie gras-turkey terrine – are whimsies best left to chefs with chops like these.
Two Bells – Very Good
Photo by Bryan Lauth