Two Bells for The Pass

the-pass-porch Bryan Lauth

Craig LaBan visits haute chef gone rustic, Matt Ridgway at his country restaurant, The Pass. LaBan calls the Rosemont, New Jersey BYOB “one of the region’s best destination dining bargains.”

[S]o many of the brilliant touches here – enriching the red wine shellfish sauce for the lobster with earthy chicken livers; the cocoa-steeped agrodolce grapes that add juicy depth to the octopus terrine; the Roquefort glaze that lends transformative piquance to banana bread; a sweet-tart eggplant chutney that gives an exotic tang to the foie gras-turkey terrine – are whimsies best left to chefs with chops like these.

Two Bells – Very Good

The Pass: Comeback chef’s sophisticated fare [Philadelphia Inquirer]
The Pass [Official Site]

Photo by Bryan Lauth

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