Craig LaBan has plenty of praise for the brunch menu from breakfast savant, Marshall Green at Jerry’s Bar. But LaBan also reminds us that Green’s talents don’t disappear after noon.
Jerry’s menu is also an opportunity for Green, who also worked at Django, Ansill, and Meritage, to remind us of some other moves. Many of them are simply bistro classics rendered with attention to detail, like the soulfully rich French onion soup gratineed beneath a molten Gruyère lid, or a steel crock of oregano-scented meatballs in bright tomato ragu. Tender snails come with an inspired summer touch of Pernod, corn, and sweet crab, which adds an unexpectedly pleasant aquatic edge. Pureed corn soup gets a brilliant, boozy echo from a shot of bourbon corn liquor. Plump chicken wings rise above bar cliche with a distinct pickle brine and a sambal chili glaze with satay peanut dip I’m craving.
Two Bells – Very Good
Jerry’s Bar: Shot-and-a-beer hangout turn fine gastropub [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Jerry’s Bar [Official Site]