Trey Popp dines at Johncarl Lachman’s Noord. He finds that the East Passyunk BYOB is more Dutch than Scandinavian but worth the visit nonetheless.
Pickled and smoked fish are the standouts. Lachman’s broodje haring is mercifully restrained: He leaves the aggressive funkiness of the genuine article in Amsterdam and brings to Philly a light pickling liquid that’s longer on wine and water. From this, the Icelandic herring fillets he was getting in early summer emerged with a sprightly tang that was an ideal answer to the heat wave. There was also wet-smoked salmon, velvety and rich, and lean smoked trout—part of a trio of open-faced fish sandwiches showered with tiny carrot crisps.
Two-and-a-half stars – Good to Excellent
Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Noord’s Northern European Homeyness [Philadelphia Magazine]
Noord [Official Site]
Photo by Courtney Apple