Craig LaBan finds that George Sabatino is succeeding by not cooking down to the masses that visit Morgan’s Pier.
The addition this summer of former Stateside chef George Sabatino has added another layer of culinary intrigue, and potentially another audience. But could a young chef whose star rose over 35 seats in South Philly keep his luster cooking for 1,200 from May through September? The answer: A resounding “yes!” And while Sabatino’s kitchen wasn’t flawless, I often found myself in awe of his ability to capture his signature knack for seasonality, wit, and deceptive complexity without seeming stuffy or overdone, for an affordable “picnic” menu that must be turned out in eight minutes or less.
Two Bells – Very Good