Craig LaBan visits CHeU Noodle Bar, the decidedly untraditional Asian restaurant by Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh.
The barbecue pig tails may be my favorite new bar food of the year, the sublimely tender shreds of meat, spiced with togarashi and hickory smoked, slip right off their wing-nut-shaped bones in a finger-licking Korean barbecue glaze. Paired with kimchi-cured ramps, fermented far longer than the standard cabbage, a plate of these tails should automatically trigger a round from the former BYOB’s new list of craft canned beer. (The $3 Bud and Pabst are for Puchowitz and Darragh, respectively.)
Also a must is the gingery broccoli sauteed with house-made Vietnamese sausage crumbles, fish sauce, and lime. The paku ribs, cut from an oversize piranha relative, are roasted with crispy tamarind-glazed skin over charred corn salad, and were uncannily like tender white pork ribs.
Two Bells – Very Good