Craig LaBan uses his review of the new Honey’s Sit ‘N Eat at 21st and South as an opportunity to take down diner magnate Michael Petrogiannis (Broad Street Diner, Melrose Diner, Mayfair Diner, and the Country Club). But LaBan also has praise for what’s coming out of chef Michael Thomas’ kitchen.
Mostly, though, Thomas’ kitchen impressed me with some of its more ambitious plates as my meals progressed. The specials board is where seasonal flavors are featured, and I had my best fiddlehead ferns of the spring here, sauteed with the salty sparkle of nutritional yeast. Ramps were reminiscent of Thomas’ Bar Ferdinand days, heat-charred and bundled around a mound of romesco sauce. Chilled pea gazpacho was vibrant with green spring sweetness and mint.
I can’t remember the last time I paid just $14 for a piece of fish as plump and nicely seared as Honey’s skin-crisped trout amandine. But as the menu’s most expensive item, it’s proof of the value here that, for the quality, competes with any classic diner. The breakfast special (two eggs, potatoes, toast, and coffee) is a very old-school $3.95.
Two Bells – Very Good
Photo by Collin Keefe