Terence Feury goes to Swedesboro and opens Tavro 13. But Trey Popp asks, is he what Swedesboro wants?
Feury is cooking as compellingly as ever. A crisp-skinned fillet of black bass made that clear. Sauced with shrimp jus and topped with blood orange suprêmes, with a bergamot hollandaise to provide a second-level spin on the citrus theme, the fish was exquisitely cooked and emblematic of the focused flavors that distinguished the chef’s work at Fork. And by no means did that dish lack company. A sea scallop entrée glistened with ginger butter, the fat accentuating the ginger’s fruity fragrance and attenuating its heat, but not so drastically as to deprive the accompanying sweet parsnip puree of a slightly spicy dance partner.
Two Stars – Good
Restaurant Review: Seasonal American Eats at Tavro 13 [Philadelphia Magazine]
Tavro 13 [Official Site]