Craig Laban enjoys Bufad, but he says he would have appreciated it more if there weren’t so many other great new pizza spots opening up around town.
I enjoyed many of the salads here, like the antipasto with remolata-topped roasted beets and sweet carrots paired with salsa verde. But the plain dough triangles of “pizza bianca” served alongside were so hard, we could barely bite through them. Ditto for the otherwise tasty ricotta panna cotta with tangy broccoli rabe and toasted almonds.
My biggest hesitation is that the pizzas – usually so appealing in their toppings – also often seemed to be missing the kind of subtle touch that can elevate one cool new pizzeria above the rest. Bufad’s Neapolitan crust itself is good, complex, chewy, and leopard-ed with char marks. But the classic Margherita lacks the flavor pop of a brighter sauce. Broccoli rabe, prosciutto, and mustard-spiked white beans are a smart combination. But the pureed beans were layered too thickly on the bottom. The mortadella pie would have been better with less sweetness from the rhubarb mostarda.
Two Bells – Very Good