Adam Erace’s knees buckle over the pizzas that Joe Beddia is putting out at his Pizzeria Beddia on Girard Avenue.
Only two or three pies are offered nightly, including the mainstay red No.1 pie, with its fresh and dried mozzarella, Old Gold (a local aged Gouda whose sharpness stands in for Parm) and deeply crimson, crushed-Jersey-tomato base. “I thought, ‘What’s the most Italian thing I could do?’ And it was to use tomatoes from New Jersey instead of ones from Pompeii,” Beddia says. House-picked Serrano chilies are a nice touch for acid and heat.
The No. 2 is Beddia’s white, a canvas of rich local cream and mozzarella accessorized seasonally. I got ramps, kale, bacon — and tinfoil to take home the extra. As I left I got a heartfelt thanks from Beddia, who bids each customerarrivaderci. He almost glows with gratitude. We should be the ones thanking him.