Specifically, some squid ink sponge bread with toasted seaweed butter. Or maybe a bit of beet volkornbrot with sunflower seeds, dehydrated roasted beets, rye berries and smoked beet butter.
Because, seriously, the 49 other menus chef Eli Kulp has already written for Fork (and Fork etc.) aren’t enough, so now he has to go and get weird with the bread service?
Awesomely, the answer is yes. Kulp is getting totally weird with the bread service. And super-geeky besides, creating special artisinal bread courses to pair with his House Menu and Whole Animal Feasts. The bread offerings change every day. The kitchen is making its own butters and cheeses–in addition to doing all its own baking. They’re offering bialys served with Philadelphia cream cheese infused with Green Meadow Farm hay and sea salt and Genzano-style bread with whipped salted butter to every table, then doing Philly soft pretzels with scratch-made cheez whiz and mustard as an amuse for the House Menu prix fixe, followed by that squid bread, the volkornbrot, and a dry-aged beef brioche made with beef fat an served with carrots.
Kulp is doing traditional weck rolls, pitas, pumpernikel, Pullman loaves, cocoa nib batard and more. He’s got all kinds of breads on hand over at Fork etc., and is changing things up every single day. Why? Because this shit matters. “In most restaurants, bread is an afterthought,” Kulp says, “but we believe guests should enjoy every last bite of their dining experience.”
I can’t wait to see what the chef decides to do next.
Photo courtesy of Jason Varney