Where We’re Eating: Fountain Restaurant – a Classic Reborn

20_Fountain_Emily Frances Olson

Once upon a time, great restaurants provided great service. But over the years, jackets have been lost, shirttails have come untucked, staffers have become less formal, and nostalgists have mourned the demise of high-end di­ning. The jacket-recommended Fountain Restaurant at the Four Seasons is a throwback.

 

Here, you’ll feel waited on hand and foot: Stealthy servers never let a glass of water fall below three-quarters full, anticipate your every desire, and know what wine you’re aching for before the need even formulates in your head. But it isn’t just the acumen of the waitstaff that will have you praising the Fountain. As old-school as the front of the house’s attention to detail may feel, the food from the kitchen is modern and of-the-moment. From the chilled lobster salad to the prosciutto-stuffed pork loin, the first bite of each dish elicits a chuckle, because, well, isn’t this what all those young, tattooed chefs are trying to do? The difference is, here at the Fountain it’s being done in a classic room with impeccable service, which makes the modernity feel (and taste) even more profound.

Fountain Restaurant
1 Logan Square at the Four Seasons
215-963-1500

  • deli-ish

    Ate there last week and it was not good. Not just overpriced. Not good. Steaks were overcooked. Side dishes were under-seasoned, and service was spotty. Clearly the Fountain’s prowess is going down the drain.

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