Longtime friends, William Schmidt and Jim Lord have taken over Cousin’s Luncheonette on West Passyunk and rechristened the spot, Cousin’s Grubhouse. Located between 22d and 23rd Streets (opposite Philip’s Steaks), Cousin’s has been a fixture at the corner of Passyunk and Hemberger since 1955. Serving up breakfast and lunch to a wide variety of regulars, Schmidt, who owned Players Pub and Black Door back in the day has cleaned up the spot and installed a new menu with the help of Lord. Lord is very attached to the wise idea, that just about anything can be made better by using bacon or a deep fryer (even better if it is both), and is pushing the menu beyond that of the traditional greasy spoon.
When we tried them last week, the Grubhouse Bacon Cakes were oddly light for three pancakes infused with crumbled bacon. The cheesesteak omelet hit the spot as you might expect and the bacon wrapped jalapeno tater tots had us going back for more.
Next time we’ll be looking at the salted caramel French toast or for lunch, the the Grubhouse Porker featuring fried bologna (Lord has family in the South), bacon, ham and rootbeer barbecue pulled pork with American cheeese and fried onions. It goes without saying that nearby Rachel’s Pantry, should not view the Grubhouse as competition.
The hours are currently 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekdays, and Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. As the pair get their feet under them, expect the weekday hours to expand and some interesting specials to appear on weekends.
Grubhouse Menu (PDF)