It is indeed a hit-or-miss affair at Red Owl Tavern on Independence Mall. Craig LaBan finds some good dishes but all too often sloppy cooking and service hinder his meals.
This kitchen’s determination to do much of the butchering in-house, however, has paid dividends with a few highlights. The charcuterie platter features a number of excellent nibbles, from hickory-smoked lomo to spot-on country pate. The house-made sausages of the day, which come over grilled toast smeared with white beans, were also worthwhile, from the smoky spice of the andouille to the winey savor of linguica. The seafood sausage had some texture issues, and the ground halibut and scallops were a little chalky without the use of cream, but the flavor was still excellent.
One Bell – Hit-or-Miss