Craig LaBan Gives Two Bells to Citron and Rose


Craig LaBan calls the Merion’s Citron and Rose an “inspiration.” LaBan says the glatt kosher spot’s European-Jewish menu also has a mainstream appeal.

But the menu’s main event – and no doubt its prime draw as a meat-friendly glatt kosher destination – is the $79 mega-rib-eye for two. This two-pound hunk of bone-in pastured steer from Grow & Behold, a Brooklyn kosher butcher, is an object of pure grill-lust, and among the best cuts of beef I’ve eaten anywhere. That’s largely because Citron and Rose dry-ages the whole racks in-house for 35 days, an almost unheard-of period locally. It’s long enough for up to 20 percent loss to shrinkage and trim, but it also concentrates the flavor to a profound and lasting intensity. The meat is amped by a tallow rub with garlic and shallots, then the haunting savor of that wood-fired grill, and I could taste the afterglow of mine for hours after the meal was over.

Two Bells – Very Good

Citron and Rose [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Citron and Rose [Official Site]