Craig LaBan Praises Eli Kulp’s Fork


Craig LaBan positively raves about chef Eli Kulp and the lastest chapter of Ellen Yin’s Fork.He even goes as far as saying the restaurant has four-bell potential.

The real “problem” here is that Kulp’s food is just so hauntingly good. For those who legitimately worried when proprietor Ellen Yin lost Terence Feury, the star chef who brought Fork its third bell, rest assured: His successor, a veteran of New York hot spots like Del Posto, Casa Lever, and Torrisi Italian Specialties, is a serious talent. And with his arrival, Yin has managed the improbable, taking a 15-year-old citywide favorite and reinventing it as something even better – current and fresh, yet sophisticated in a grown-up way so many new restaurants just can’t muster.

Three Bells – Excellent

LaBan Review: Fork [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fork [Official Site]

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  • CM Drunk

    That mural is ugly. Food is good though.

  • Brian

    The thought of a 15yo restaurant – ambitious and lovingly kept – becoming the city’s hottest is nice. Hope this 3 bell review helps that.

  • Michael G

    They have reinvented themselves firstly with Terence Fleury and now with Eli Kulp which is great since some places never change(I’m thinking of Alma De Cuba) with time.

  • BrickSquadMonopoly

    The only thing that’s on Chip is not calling that timeout. He made a decision to go for the touchdown instead of going with a field goal and running more time off. It wasn’t a bad decision it just is what it is.

  • jabostick

    The only one I really fault Chip on is rushing the play
    before the two-minute warning where Vick got hurt (though not BECAUSE Vick got hurt).Other than that,
    his strength is running the offense a certain way, he shouldn’t, in his words, “handcuff” the
    offense to start playing clock games

  • Glenn

    Kelly would have been better served letting time go to the two minute warning, to milk the clock, have better personnel, and better plays. He should have subbed out Desean, possibly for another TE or bigger receiver, and come up with a better goal line call on first and second downs. And he would have forced it to be the final possession, whether it was a FG or TD. That second down call when Foles was in wouldn’t have worked with Vick either. For as good as Desean is, he is ineffective in goal to go situations.

  • morgan c

    Was it just me, or was it not very clear what we should have done:

    1st and 10 from the 14. Let the clock bleed down to the 2 minute warning. You use that virtual time-out to devise your 3-4 plays and game-plan to get into the end-zone. You still have three time-outs remaining, and now you have the advantage of discussing things over and re-setting so to speak only 14 yards from pay-dirt. Time is not a factor with three time-outs, so you need to bleed as much clock as possible, especially being only 14 yards out. Kelly seems to think bleeding clock and scoring 7 is mutually exclusive. It is not at all.

    Run the ball your fist play on the other side of the two minute warning. We ran 2 run plays in the entire second half. Running the ball would have caught them off guard and probably netted 4-5 yards, as it did all game. Let the block bleed. It’s now 2nd and 5/6 with 1:30 left (assuming SD doesn’t blow through the rest of their TOs, and if they do, great). Run an option play. If it works great, if not, you still have 1 minute left and all your time-outs for a manageable 3rd down. Chances are, we will convert either second or third down, and get a fresh set, inside the 5 yard line if not score. We have used maybe one time-out, and now the clock is under a minute for SD. We run run run to get into the end-zone, and throw on third down if we have to. SD now has 30 seconds left and probably no time-outs. Worst case, we kick a field goal, with SD now having 30 seconds and no time-outs.

    What am I missing?

    • damrvrhunter

      He has admitted to the mistake. Be nice if he has some protocol in place with Schmur to guide him through the last 2 minutes or so of an NFL game. He needs to work out these scenarios before game day.

  • Glenn

    I disagree with controlling the clock nonsense. The Eagles problem was not getting the ball back in the first half, and allowing San Diego to run the ball and control the clock, with only six and seven men in the box. The problem was with the defense, not the offense, with regards to ball control. Of course, with the exception of the final 2:05.

  • Capt. Chippahpants

    On a positive note, we haven’t seen the same mistake twice. Last week Chip was criticized for taking his foot off the pedal too early. This week he kept his foot to the gas. At least at least, it’s not a recurrent mistake as was the case with Mr. Reid. It seems Chip is willing to change.

    • damrvrhunter

      Your last sentence I agree with whole-heartedly. Taking the foot of the gas against the Skins was the correct strategy albeit a half of a quarter early.

  • ftotheyu

    Boy, overreaction Monday. Kelly is a rookie coach, and at Oregon I think he rarely had to worry about clock management b/c he’s also multiple touchdowns ahead of the opponent. So he made some mistakes in this game.

    The thing is, we all came into this season knowing that the team would be at best a .500 team. Last week’s UNEXPECTED win has all of a sudden somehow propelled the Eagles to be in Super Bowl contention in terms of hype. Let’s turn down the hype y’all. We all knew coming in that the defense (and secondary) would be bad. And Kelly would have to make some adjustments and learn along the way how to be an effective coach in the NFL. Mistakes are part of the game and every team makes team. The difference being I fully expect Kelly to grow and learn from his, whereas Andy Reid rarely did and continued to sit on his high horse while being in denial.

    The man isn’t a miracle worker, and especially when he’s been given mediocre talent on defense. We have to remember that we hired Kelly for the long haul, to build a winning program. The Eagles are still on track to do that, so let’s not lose sight of the long run here.

    • jabostick

      I hear you, and this is essentially what we have probably all expected – a lot of first year up and downs, hopefully a nice foundation being built, etc.

      Having said that, it was absolutely a winnable game (and missed opportunity given the rest of the East losing). A dumb Chung penalty and a mismanaged half-a-minute could’ve/should’ve been the difference. I don’t think that’s the hype machine talking or unreasonable expectations or requisite of a miracle.

      • ftotheyu

        Totally agreed on the winnable game yesterday. But part of having an inexperienced coaching staff and inexperienced players (which we expected coming in) is having boneheaded mistakes and penalties which translate into losing winnable games. That’s where experience makes a difference. These are the games we hopefully should win a year or two down the road once the team and the staff get some experience under their belts and iron out the wrinkles.

    • BleedGreenJames

      Great post. People need to keep their heads around here.

    • damrvrhunter

      The offensive is so innovative and explosive as currently constituted that I firmly believe it can win the Superbowl this year if the defense is just adequate. And if Kelly fixes his clock management issue, etc this is a 10 win team in today’s mediocre NFL and would be very hard to beat in a single game playoff format. So no it is not hype to expect much more out of this team THIS year, Packers won the Super Bowl with a barely adequate defense and a SUPERLATIVE offense. Why not the Eagles?

    • LeClaw

      There are more issues with this team and in that game than the poor clock management…if our defense could have stopped air just once…it would have been a non-issue…lesson learned

  • iWANTsex


  • Bobby

    Would have been nice to see curry or graham on Dunlap all day. Sometimes you need to unleash a one trick pony.

  • Adam Phillips

    A work in progress but I think these things will work themselves out but as for the secondary I don’t know and let’s get Vinny Curry on the field we got no pressure up the middle

  • Kuney

    This situation seemed like the perfect scenario for the 13 formation no? All those tight ends we kept…plus riley cooper (our only large and best blocking receiver) Take it to the 2 mins…and run three straight plays from this personal grouping pending what they give you?
    Was a little disappointed it didn’t happen. Its all 20/20 and Chip is still the man but this is HIS first loss but there was a lot to learn and i’m glad it this loss happened before the hype machine got to far ahead.
    I’ve said it before and i’ll say it again…we will lose most of our games with the defense on the field. Chip needs to play to our strength and make sure that our offense is the last one on the field.
    And at worst i’ll take our chances in a shoot in overtime going forward.

    • damrvrhunter

      My comments above apply here as well.

  • Dom

    There was a lot of bad officiating in the game ….especially not throwing flags in favor of the eagles defensive lineman and wide recievers …….who were illegally held ,grabbed and pulled down the whole game ….it was like an HBO episode of “OZ” for our players …but the officials would throw a flag against the eagles if one of them even whistled or winked at the chargers

  • Seabreezes51

    If he learns the lessons he can make a few mistakes. If he doesn’t and we have to watch the same mistakes over and over..well,that’s not so good.

  • BrickSquadMonopoly

    But what happened to the Chip Kelly that’s risky on 4th down and LOVES 2 pt conversions. He uses science he had numbers behind the 2 pt conversions…what happened to all of that?

  • DuckFan

    I took Sunday and most of today off from posting because I was a little too pissed about the game. The problem isn’t Kelly’s coaching, it’s the damn defense. These guys can’t get any pass rush with 4 rushers. And if they drop 7 in coverage the qb’s has all day to pick then apart. Outside of Chung, they don’t have one legitimate starter in the secondary. It’s going to be a stressful season because they can’t play defense at all.

  • geagles

    The eagles should onside kick every time they score. I’m serious. They might recover some and score again or the other team won’t take so much time to score if they get it and our offense can get back on the field.

  • anon

    Yeah think thats why everyone is so mad, b/c those are the TYPES of games that you need to win, and that matter as we head down the road.

  • hawaiieaglesfan

    Great point. Rememer the o line and how they could not pass protect during preseason and the first game agint the redskins. Well the o line did a great job of pass protection when Vick was asked to win the game with his arm. It looks like Chip fixed it. No he doesnt make the same mistakes twice. With Chip he aims for perfection. Although unachieveable. The fact that you aim for it makes you great.
    My only hope is thst philosphy carries over to the d. That is the biggest question. We are mediocre on corners and weak in the safety position. The lb tip their hand too early during presnap. These things are fixable.
    If they do not fix the d we stand a good chance of finsihing ar 8 and 8.
    If they do fix the problems dare I say we will make the playoffs. Im not even thinking the SB word this year. Being an Eagle fan since Randal Cunningham I know better. Too much heartbreak Although it would be awsome if we even made it that far. E.A.G.L.E.S. GO EAGLES!!!

  • hawaiieaglesfan

    “icing on a rotton cake” LOL. When Dallas loses Ill eat that cake any day. Especially with Andy Reid serving it. No I have not forgotten that Reid was one of the greatest that coached the eagles. I still love the guy. Not so much this Thursday.

  • G_WallyHunter

    He’s done better than expected, and that’s all we can really hope for right now. I’ll be very happy with a 7-9 season, considering the secondary

  • DW

    In this division they could certainly with the nine or ten games that it would take to get the East.

  • A Big Butt and a Smile

    Hell 8-8 might win this division this year. The teams have SO many holes it’s ridiculous.

  • BlindChow

    McCoy was averaging 4.8 yds/carry. Brown had 4.3/yds carry. You must be wearing Reid-colored glasses!

  • Dutch

    No, you cleared that up……. thx!!!

  • Jenkees

    Lets keep Gus Johnson in the broadcast booth, thanks.

  • Will

    The Defense is ranked 30th in the NFL after 2 games.

  • A Big Butt and a Smile

    One of those off to DeSean was a TD on the same series. Another I beleive was a field goal.

  • borntosuffer

    Very happy with Vick’s play. Definitely rooting for him. But, that lateral that probably wasn’t a lateral is on him. That’s nit-picking, though as he has played very well.