Craig LaBan reviews Pizza Brain on on Frankford Avenue in Fishtown. Fresh ingredients and balanced flavors furnish the Guinness World Recorded pizza museum/shop with two bells.
But while there are certainly more exquisite and inventive pizzas in town, Dwyer and partners Ryan Anderson, Mike Carter, and chef Joe Hunter have done a surprisingly respectable job of spinning some worthy variations on the classic crispy American genre. No puffy, personal Neapolitan pies here. This dough, created by sous chef Austin Adams, is touched by the DNA of sourdough starter and delivers personality.
And while the toppings don’t always quite match the zaniness of the pizzas’ names (most culled from Dwyer’s days as a young data-entry Dilbert), they highlight good ingredients and a fine sense of balance.
Two Bells – Very Good