The Mildred Filled with Potential

Adam Erace recently visited The Mildred, the new restaurant by former Talula’s Garden chef Michael Santoro. Expecting to find over-the-top plates, he was surprised to find dishes as simple as chicken and biscuits on the menu. However, his did not stop The Mildred from setting a great first impression.

What we’re doing here is more personal, straight-up good cookin’ with less reliance on garnish for garnish’s sake,” says the chef. “The food looks a lot different [from Talula’s], but there’s a thread running through everything I’ve been doing for the past several years: low-temp cooking, marinading, brining, braising, the application of food science, how it affects vegetables, eggs, milk.” In Philly, we don’t have the luxury of having known Santoro for the past several years. We don’t know the Santoro of the Blue Duck in D.C. or the Santoro of the Fat Duck in London or the Santoro of Gilt in New York. All we know is the Santoro of Talula’s Garden, which is why the rustic persona of the Mildred’s menu feels like such a curveball. But what’s happening in the kitchen, behind the scenes, Santoro insists, has always been the same.

Magic Mikes [City Paper]
The Mildred [Official Site]

Photo by Neal Santos

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  • Sucka Tash

    I enjoy most of his reviews, but Adam has no idea what he is writing about. I agree with the theme of the review, but does he have access to google., let alone a fact checking intern? Does he know what kind of food is served at Gilt or the Fat Duck? You’re right, you don’t know Santoro at Gilt or FD. Which means you don’t know Paul Liebrandt or Heston Blumenthal. That is inexcusable of a food critic in a major city. Heston Blumenthal!? Paul Liebrandt!? There surely isn’t a lack of coverage on them. They make Talula’s Garden look like Maggiano’s. Jonny Mac has equal training almost to the letter and cooks similar food. Good cooks cook good food. Focus on that and not a tired, misinformed angle.