Adam Erace reviews the Cambridge on South Street West and finds it to be a work in progress.
Beers took long. Food took longer. A shame, because both the Cambridge’s bar and the kitchen delivered during my visit, with dry, fizzy cider and tart cranberry lambic from the 24-deep draught system complementing sharable plates like housemade pierogies, poutine and pork belly with pickled fennel from chefs Matthew Plank (a Hawthorne’s transfer) and Jason VanderVossen. Grilled and pulled dark-meat chicken was charged with black pepper and lemon zest for one of several rotating fillings for those pierogies. The seasoned meat joined mashed potatoes and onions before being stuffed into sour-cream dough; crispy, buttery and drizzled with sticky balsamic, the pierogies might not win a Polish granny’s approval in Port Richmond, but on this revitalized stretch of South Street, they’re something to celebrate.
Photo by Neal Santos