Adam Erace revisits Time on Sansom Street after a less than stellar first impression. Now he’s back to see how the restaurant has changed under the tutelage of chef Sean Magee.
Magee takes risks, both on the nightly menu and in the five-course ($45) and seven-course ($65) tastings of on-the-fly caprices and percolating experiments. The risks don’t always pay off, but I’ll take one dud for every four inspired successes. That creative spirit is what makes Time more relevant as a dining destination than it ought to be, best exemplified by the Kung Pao bone marrow, a long canoe of jellied beef fat brushed, while roasting, with soy sauce and brown sugar and fortified with Szechuan peppercorns and Chinese chilies. Crushed peanuts, chopped scallions and shards of crystallized ginger released their essential oils over the hot marrow’s surface, creating another layer of flavor that drew me in bite after bite after bite. I loved the ginger in particular, sneaky little grenades of sugarcoated fire.