Craig LaBan drops one-bell on Peter McAndrews’ Nothern Liberties BYOB, Popolino. LaBan finds quality control issues and admonishes McAndrews to get back in the kitchen.
Too many dishes, though, stumbled over execution that can only be described as “sloppolino.” The lamb carpaccio was flavorful, but warmed so much that the curling shreds looked like cheesesteak meat scraped off a griddle. A clever saltimbocca variation of trout wrapped in prosciutto and sage was overcooked, as stiff as a board. The luscious tuna was wildly overspiced. Veal with mushrooms was drowned in cream. And the odd, mole-like cocoa sauce for the canneloni could not hide the lack of tenderness of the shredded oxtail tucked inside.
One Bell – Hit-or-Miss