Popolino is “Sloppolino” – Oh No He Didn’t!

Craig LaBan drops one-bell on Peter McAndrews’ Nothern Liberties BYOB, Popolino. LaBan finds quality control issues and admonishes McAndrews to get back in the kitchen.

Too many dishes, though, stumbled over execution that can only be described as “sloppolino.” The lamb carpaccio was flavorful, but warmed so much that the curling shreds looked like cheesesteak meat scraped off a griddle. A clever saltimbocca variation of trout wrapped in prosciutto and sage was overcooked, as stiff as a board. The luscious tuna was wildly overspiced. Veal with mushrooms was drowned in cream. And the odd, mole-like cocoa sauce for the canneloni could not hide the lack of tenderness of the shredded oxtail tucked inside.

One Bell – Hit-or-Miss

Popolino [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Popolino [Official Site]

Be respectful of our online community and contribute to an engaging conversation. We reserve the right to ban impersonators and remove comments that contain personal attacks, threats, or profanity, or are flat-out offensive. By posting here, you are permitting Philadelphia magazine and Metro Corp. to edit and republish your comment in all media.

  • Tex

    Yikes. That’s embarassing.

  • Seriously?

    Tex, flaw in your logic: LaBan’s opinion means nothing to me and most other diners. Or did you mean LaBan’s writing and review style is what’s embarassing?

  • Jimmy

    I learned to ignore LaBan’s personal dining preferences and pedantry long ago.

  • Lord Chesterfield

    LaBan’s cringe-worthy word play aside, I’m not shocked by the poor review. Have people had good meals there lately? Can’t yet muster the will to try it after lackluster meals at Modo and Monsu within the last year or so.

  • Ryan

    Thats right… I forgot that bloggers, Yelpers, Redditors and Twitterers are better than food critics.

  • Love it

    Of course Scarduzio was the douchebag being loud that McAndrews had to apologize for — and you know he recognized Laban! What an ass.

  • John Dory

    Modo Mio was mediocre at best last time I was in.