Le Bec Fin is Back from the Edge

Craig LaBan has several excellent meals at the Nicolas Fanucci’s Le Bec Fin where the Inquirer critic finds chef Walter Abrams is creating contemporary and adventurous dishes. But the question remains, can Le Bec Fin be of the here-and-now?

I’m still savoring some of the most elegant plates from our tasting menus: the meaty chunk of grilled cobia set beside the fresh pop of baby black-eyed peas; the ethereal crimson stream of chilled borscht poured tableside over tiny Mexican gherkins, puffed wheat, and tart yogurt; the pure silk of foie gras terrine, shaped like a gold brick beside fresh figs and a little baba cake dipped in coffee; the rosy glow of lamb chops with Fairytale eggplant; the juicy tenderness of St.-Canut Farms suckling pig with tart gooseberries and earthy farro.

Three Bells – Excellent

Le Bec rising [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Le Bec Fin [Official Site]

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  • Paul

    No comment on LaBan’s insulting seniors?

    “[the] dining room was not exactly dead that day. But the smattering of elderly patrons at the linen tables sounded close enough, hacking frequently between pauses, sending back their iced tea, muttering “Georges” every few minutes as if he were the patron saint.”

    I suppose it would have been OK if there was a 20-something with a cold a the next table. But please keep senior citizens away from Craig LaBan!

  • bob newhart

    it’s time to put him to sleep. it’s clearly a two bell restaurant as far as money is concerned.

    sure the food is decent, just not at those prices. there are at least ten places to dine in philly with just as serious food at a fraction of the cost.

    in this economy?