“As cozy as a family gathering” is how Brian Freedman describes dinner at Nomad Pizza. We wished all family gatherings came with pizzas like this.
This means, for example, that the soppressata (from a small butcher in Union, N.J.) on its eponymous pizza is more than just a conduit for a vaguely porky flavor. It’s deeply flavorful, palm-sized, and round-kissed with just enough spice to justify the drizzle of local honey applied to it prior to its stint in the oven. The mingling of the salty-spicy juices of the soppressata and the deeper notes of the olive oil create a far more complex and complete riff on a pepperoni pizza than this city has seen in some time.