Craig LaBan heaps the praise on the latest from Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s tapas bar, Jamonera.
Turney’s most stunning dishes, though, are dressed in squid-ink black. The calamari marinate in ink before getting crisped and are so ebony they look to have been fried in a volcano. But they’re delicate and tender, with a smoky wisp of pimenton Spanish paprika, a squirt of lemon, and garlic chips. With the mussels escabeche, whose vermouth-marinated mollusks are cleverly in a sardine can, squid ink completes the ingenious trompe l’oeil garnish of faux mussel shells molded and baked around actual shells with a potato-garlic tuile dough.
Three Bells – Excellent
Photo by Jason Varney | Fussing with Forks