Matt Zagorski may never leave the shadow of his burger. The man behind the Rouge burger puts out a burger Craig LaBan raves about in his review of Hickory Lane but it is good to know other parts of the menu feature winners as well.
When this kitchen’s in its zone, though, presenting simple bistro dishes with quality ingredients, smart accents, and solid technique, it is hard not to see the appeal. A beautifully seasoned pork tenderloin came over super-silky sweet potato puree and swiss chard ringed with a honeyed citrus caramel and garlic oil blushing red with paprika. Seared king salmon was paired with creamy polenta and crackly leaves of aromatic fried oregano. A roasted breast of wing-on chicken, the ultimate neighborhood bistro dish, had tawny crisped skin and a full juicy savor, with creamy Yukon potato puree flecked with green garlic butter. The NY strip, meanwhile, was exceptionally tender and flavorful, basted with herby maître d’butter and rich red wine jus. I only wish those house-made frites had been crisper.
Also of note, Hickory Lane is aiming to add a liquor license this summer.
Two Bells – Very Good