Craig LaBan likes the concept of East Passyunk pizzeria and beer bar Birra, but his review highlights problems with poor execution and flawed recipes.
The chunky tomatoes were less of a bother (though not a plus, either) with spaghetti and meatballs pie, which was probably the best of the novelty offerings — the noodles baked to an extra little crunch, the meatballs tender with veal and milk-soaked bread. But the addition of tomato sauce and “white sauce” (molten crème fraîche) to the “cheeseburger” pizza completely disconnected Birra’s rendition from anything resembling its namesake. The sesame-dusted pickles were a highlight, but two of my favorite foods had essentially dissolved into one disastrous, indistinguishable heap.
One Bell – Hit or Miss