Adam Erace enjoys the precise cooking of Mitch Prensky at Lemon Hill but he also has praise for another hand in the kitchen of the Fairmount bar.
But I don’t want to take too much away from Justin Relkin, the pastry chef for Supper and Prensky’s catering arm, Global Dish. He bakes all the bread for Lemon Hill, from the wonderful rye baguette that’s toasted and served with sprightly mixed pickles to the ethereal popovers filled with blue cheese and floated in a comforting bowl of smoked tomato soup. The pie-centric dessert menu is his, as well. There’s only one variety available now, a cran-apple that toed the line between sweet and tart, along with the best chocolate-chip pound cake I’ve had. They’re served a la mode if you wish, and why wouldn’t you with flavors like elegant buttermilk and smooth, sticky peanut butter?