Rimedio Opens Friday

“Thank you for calling the future Rimedio…”

That’s what the answering machine at Rimedio (now living in the former West Philly home of Rx at 45th and Spruce) has been saying for a while now. But in a couple days, the new restaurant will have to change that message because, come Friday, Rimedio will be soft-opening under the command of Dan Freeman (ex of Bistro 7, and L’Oca).

Freeman will be doing modern Northern Italian cuisine in the newly re-habbed space. Think diver scallops over garlic fava beans, but touched with a hit of bacon foam and olive oil powder. Or risotto zafferano with butter-poached langoustines. He’s got house-made pasta on the board, a lamb shank with mustard greens and a black currant / lamb demi, hanger steak crusted with sourdough pretzels and served with black truffle oil.

I’m really curious about how Freeman is going to pull all this off. But one thing he’s got going for him? He apparently did time in my former home base of Denver, where he cooked in one of the city’s more innovative kitchens: The one at Vesta Dipping Grill. Anyone who knows the place will tell you that a post on that line guarantees that Freeman knows how to do 2 things very well: Work across borders with competing bodies of technique, and handle a crowd.

Rimedio opens soft on Friday, offers its first brunch service on Saturday, then rolls into regular dinner operation on Saturday night.

Rx Reopening As Rimedio [The Insider]

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  • rory

    what, exactly, is curious about the menu and makes you wonder “how Freeman is going to pull this off?” The menu is not very large, it’s clearly all northern italian…so what brought in the doubt? Or was that just an attempt to get a hook in about some place in Denver? If so, it sounds disparaging to a chef to ask how he’ll pull off a menu that sounds perfectly doable.

  • http://philadelphia.foobooz.com/author/jsheehan Jason Sheehan

    @Rory

    Last time I checked, bacon foam, olive oil powder, sourdough pretzel crusts (and truffle oil, for that matter) are not part of the traditional N. Italian canon. What makes it curious to me is the juxtaposition of classic presentations and modern techniques and I do wonder how Freeman will balance it once service begins.

  • rory

    Then take it as a writing critique–your point about bacon foam and olive oil powder and pretzel crusts–was lost amidst your writing style.

    take it as a food point also. Truffle oil might not be used in northern italy (because they know its a scam), but truffle flavors certainly aren’t shocking. Nor is olive oil, and so what if its a powder? Italian food can’t have powders? Same with foam–bacon is pretty damn similar in flavor profile to tons of italian food, and so what if it’s a foam? How does that make it so much harder to pull off. It’s not really crossing borders, it’s more using modernist techniques on a more traditional menu item. none of those things sounds ridiculous, hard to execute, or like the flavors don’t make sense. maybe it’d be better if the olive oil weren’t a powder, maybe it wouldn’t. but that menu doesn’t scream out that it’s confused or overly complicated to me. In fact, using the powders and foams and whatnot might make it a lot easier–now that dish with bacon in it doesn’t need to have bacon fried a la minute like it might otherwise have needed.

    color me unconvinced. this pre-opening doubting of any smidgeon of modern technique is all too reminiscent of Laban’s overly aggressive anti-modernist stance that has kept Philly from embracing it as a technique in an arsenal instead of as a revolution. I, for one, appreciate that restaurants around here are more and more often starting to use modernist touches in dishes as part of a menu instead of either doing them on every dish or never even considering it.

  • barryg

    Laban loved Adsum and that had modernist techniques smattered all over the menu.

  • Brian

    Well I got a little tickle when I saw the hook to Vesta. Awesome restaurant.

  • rory

    Laban loved Matt Levin. exception that proved the rule, imo.

  • alex

    the irony is that adsum sucked, and was everything wrong with modernism. rory, your last paragraph in comment #3 has been my stance for years. i guess we’ll see what happens with le bec/santoro/and possibly shields.

  • no

    I lived near Rx for quite a few years, but didn’t go there often. The food was okay. My biggest memory of the place was it had no functional air conditioning, and last time I was there it was really uncomfortable.