Craig LaBan reviews Route 6, Stephen Starr’s East Coast seafood restaurant and takes it to task for not being enough of a Philadelphia fish house of a bygone era.
If I’d eaten only starters here, Route 6 would have been in for a far more cheery review. More delights from the raw bar: a perfect shrimp cocktail, the tender meat infused with its poach in grapefruit juice and chiles; also a cracked Dungeness crab with a zippy Worcestershire-tinged Louis dressing, harking back to [Chef Anthony] DiRienzo’s San Francisco days. Deviled eggs generously stuffed with lump crab salad tingled with cayenne-mustard heat. The “chopped” salad was more of a flimsy mixed green salad tossed with grilled shrimp and Green Goddess dressing. But the Caesar salad was refreshingly crunchy and piquant, topped with plump, silvery anchovies.
One Bell – Hit-or-Miss