Craig LaBan reviews Vedge and puts us all on notice, chef Rich Landau’s vegan cooking will be garnering national attention as he is one of the best chefs in Philadelphia, meat or no meat.
A heat-crisped cluster of feathery maitake looks like a pouf of mushroom haute couture bursting off a creamy pedestal of mashed truffled turnips ringed by electric-green kale jus. Tender sheets of roasted eggplant are rolled braciole-style around a pureed stuffing of smoked eggplant, cauliflower, and jasmine rice. The delicate snap of honshimeji mushrooms starred in a hearty chowder of saffron-and-fennel broth that had a whiff of the sea from a dusting of Old Bay.
Three Bells – Excellent