Trey Popp finds that Kevin Sbraga can really shine at his eponymous restaurant on Broad Street.
Over-cute missteps and fast-corrected blunders aside, Sbraga more often showed a rare ability to make the smallest detail stand out. His apple cider miso-glazed black cod was good enough to order twice even without the bok choy chip that shattered on the tongue like a brittle autumn leaf. Yet my most memorable bite of that dish was a forkful of bacon-y adzucki beans bearing a single cilantro leaf. It’s hard to say why—hard even to know why—but it was just so right.
Two and a half stars – Good to Excellent
Sbraga: In the Spotlight [Philadelphia magazine]