Brian Freedman works “perfect” or “perfectly” into his review of Joseph Scarpone’s new Ulivo six times. The whole experience isn’t perfect but as you might guess, Freedman likes it perfectly fine.
Fried polenta was perfect for a blustery winter’s night, each fluffy-centered cornmeal and semolina baton encased in a perfectly golden crust and complicated by both fontina and parmigiano reggiano, as well as an anchovy-spiked salsa rosa. It looked like a perfect plate of sliced French toast, and was every bit as comforting. Grilled octopus showed off Scarpone’s acumen with a difficult ingredient: meaty cuts, braised and then marinated prior to hitting the open flame, then tossed with slivers of sopressata, had the texture of tender steak and were beautifully accompanied by olive oil-braised Yukon gold potatoes singing with the brightness of a whole citrus vinaigrette.
Chef Joseph Scarpone Is Back—This Time, With the Impressive Ulivo [Philadelphia Weekly]
Ulivo [Official Site]