Adam Erace is blown away by Top Chef winning Kevin Sbraga’s eponymous restaurant, declaring it on its way to being one of the best in Philadelphia.
People have come for Sbraga. Smarter people have come for his food, inspired ideas anchored by flawless French execution. The terrine, for example, was textbook: tight and solid and clean, compliments quick to escape while mesmerized by the mosaic of red (fruity piquillo peppers), green (biting green tomatoes) and purplish-black (eggplant). Sbraga served Tom, Padma and Gail a similar terrine during the Top Chef finale, though here, instead of kaffir lime and Thai basil, the cool, pressed-veggie pastiche is entwined with funky-sweet black garlic, goat cheese and jalapeño.