Craig LaBan declares that long suffering East Falls has a restaurant worth keeping in Franco Faggi’s Fiorino. The 34-seat BYOB has been packing them in since opening this summer.
Faggi’s best dish, likewise, is the height of minimalist finesse – an all-white bowl of Gorgonzola cream-glazed potato gnocchi so light, they evaporate in warm breath like creamy puffs of blue-cheese whimsy. It’s the kind of indulgence that must be eaten immediately – hardly a problem when they were hot and levitating on a flash of forks from our bowl. I was punished for my greed in taking some home, only to find one hour later that they’d already turned leaden and pasty. The best things are fleeting that way.
Two Bells – Very Good