Swagger and Spice at Tashan

Adam Erace says the food coming from Sylva Senat’s kitchen at Tashan is some of the most exciting to debut all year. Especially impressive when you figure the Jean-Georges, Aquavit and Buddakan veteran had never cooked Indian cuisine professionally.

His comfort working with bold seasoning is evident in dishes like venison, grilled with fenugreek, cumin and smoked cloves before being kissed by rum-and-plum chutney. He distills Xacutti, a Goan curry typically made with chicken or lamb, to its essential spices — no fewer than 21 of them — and applies the blend to pork tenderloin in both wet and dry marinades. Even the desserts showed a mastery of Indian flavors, from mysterious, fickle rose in a trio of kulfi ice creams, to cardamom and cinnamon woven through a lush bread pudding. The spectacular peshwari naan, part of the “chef’s basket” of baked-to-order flatbreads, could have qualified as a dessert, too, with a paste of ground cashews, pistachios, raisins and coconut spread inside its warm, smoky folds. It tasted like India’s version of French toast.

Posh Spice [City Paper]
Tashan [Official Site]

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  • Food Phan

    Must be nice to not have to pay that bill…..sheesh expensive.

  • Anon

    This place is crazy expensive for Indian food. You are just paying for the interior.

  • Willie

    Sylva Senat is a good chef and on top of that a really nice guy.

    Totally seperate from that is that this restaurant is doomed at this location and price point.

    He deserves better and I hope I’m wrong and they succeed here. If not, I wish him better luck at the next stop.

  • barryg

    Nothing wrong with a high end Indian restaurant in theory, if the food is unique and good. People pay a lot for a place like Osteria… is that expensive “for Italian food?” There is a huge range in style and quality of Italian restaurants, why not for Indian? I agree the location sucks, but again I would have said the same about Osteria…

  • Anon.

    osteria is DEFINITELY expensive for Italian food.
    1 pizza 2 pasta 2 glasses of wine 1 shared dessert for $125 is nuts.
    Back to tashan there is nothing wrong with high end indian restaurants in theory if they serve indian food.tashan follows the london model of boring euro-indian restaurants that focus on decor instead of food.most people just end up going to eat real indian food in Ealing-southall.drinks at tashan are just sugar bombs and enough of the sould on “indian food” is removed.place is doomed.i give it till the end of next summer.deathwatch.

  • methi_head

    Another high-end Indian concept featuring beef (see: recently closed Bindi). Beef. Am I the only one who scratched my head over that? If you’re calling yourself Indian, and you’re THAT GREAT at what you do, surely you can manage to utilize more traditional meats and birds than sacred cow. And yes, before someone corrects me, I do know that India (having been there) is very diverse and not everyone is a beef-eschewing Hindu. Still, I don’t get it.