Adam Erace loves the drink program at Farmers’ Cabinet. But he finds that even after two months as chef, Jason Goodman is still working out the kinks.
House-made merguez, for example, a friggin’ firecracker alongside a pan-seared lamb loin with pearl barley and delicata purée. Or meaty, crunchy tempura frog legs stuffed with pork shoulder, a creation (currently not on the menu) so prep-intensive and so clever it makes me think Goodman is either a masochist or a genius.Those glimmers mesmerized, but like fireflies, they flashed with frustrating infrequence. Under Goodman, the food here has taken a step up, but overall, it’s still half a dozen reading levels below the restaurant’s peerless beverage program, immersive atmosphere and taut service.