Food Still Lags at Farmers’ Cabinet

Adam Erace loves the drink program at Farmers’ Cabinet. But he finds that even after two months as chef, Jason Goodman is still working out the kinks.

House-made merguez, for example, a friggin’ firecracker alongside a pan-seared lamb loin with pearl barley and delicata purée. Or meaty, crunchy tempura frog legs stuffed with pork shoulder, a creation (currently not on the menu) so prep-intensive and so clever it makes me think Goodman is either a masochist or a genius.Those glimmers mesmerized, but like fireflies, they flashed with frustrating infrequence. Under Goodman, the food here has taken a step up, but overall, it’s still half a dozen reading levels below the restaurant’s peerless beverage program, immersive atmosphere and taut service.

Selling the Farm [City Paper]
Farmers’ Cabinet [Official Site]

Around the Web

Be respectful of our online community and contribute to an engaging conversation. We reserve the right to ban impersonators and remove comments that contain personal attacks, threats, or profanity, or are flat-out offensive. By posting here, you are permitting Philadelphia magazine and Metro Corp. to edit and republish your comment in all media.