Zeppoli: 100 Decibels; 2 Bells

Craig LaBan enjoyed his dinner if not the din at Collingswood’s Zeppoli.

A baked orata with crispy potatoes gilded by slow-cooked artichokes and caper berries, and oil-cured, was the juiciest whole fish I’ve eaten this year. Goat stewed in milk to sublime tenderness is finished to a crisp in the oven with a crust of herbed lardo. Addictive little twists of Sicilian fusilli come tossed in a vivid green pesto “Trapanese” made from pistachios, almonds, and basil so fragrant it seduces your senses before you even take a bite. And then I took many.

Zeppoli [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Zeppoli [Official Site]

  • mmgth

    I think it’s harsh to withhold a third bell due to the noise issue alone.

  • ChickenWang

    Yeah Joey!! I think a loud two bell restaurant is exactly the kind of place I’d enjoy twice a week.

    Plus, Joey Baldino is the man and he deserves every bit of that review.

  • loaf

    Agreed, Joe is the best and is putting his heart and soul into that place. To not give him two bells b/c of the noise is bullshit. At some point is has to be about the food.