Craig LaBan is reminded of just how good a chef Bryan Sikora can be during three outstanding meals at a.kitchen.
It’s the fish dishes, always the most delicate, that show a kitchen’s skill. A gorgeous grouper with fresh favas, fennel-scented fava puree, and red-pepper piperade reminded me of Django. Crisped skate Provencale was ringed by a piquant necklace of capers. A gratin of airy gnocchi, meanwhile, mixed into bechamel with smoked haddock and snappy summer squash, is the kind of dish I’ll be craving as the fall chill settles in.
3 Bells – Excellent
Photo by Jeffrey Totaro