3 Bells for A.kitchen

Craig LaBan is reminded of just how good a chef Bryan Sikora can be during three outstanding meals at a.kitchen.

It’s the fish dishes, always the most delicate, that show a kitchen’s skill. A gorgeous grouper with fresh favas, fennel-scented fava puree, and red-pepper piperade reminded me of Django. Crisped skate Provencale was ringed by a piquant necklace of capers. A gratin of airy gnocchi, meanwhile, mixed into bechamel with smoked haddock and snappy summer squash, is the kind of dish I’ll be craving as the fall chill settles in.

3 Bells – Excellent

a.kitchen [Philadelphia Inquirer]
a.kitchen [Official Site]

Photo by Jeffrey Totaro

  • JohnyLaw

    3?? I guess having an opening kitchen allows Sikora to make sure only the best plates go to LaBan. The food there is mediocre at best.

  • rory

    it doesn’t take an open kitchen to make sure a reviewer gets the best of the food.

  • jay

    Are we really questioning the food chops (not the, would I want to work with this guy) of Bryan Sikora? Come on now.

  • 3rd&Brown

    JohnyLaw would rather eat across the street at Serafina. The food at a.kitchen is great.

  • http://afterdinnersneeze.wordpress.com afterdinnesneeze

    I am also surprised by the three stars – I gotta get back to this place and give it a whirl.

  • cleevus

    ate there last week. good to see that the simple execution of food is focused on, rather than trying to outwit each other with stupid ideas, wordplay and concepts.