Adam Erace came for the honey butter gnocchi at the Happy Rooster but it is the fish and crustaceans that have Erace crowing.
[T]he finessed, coral-colored lobster broth surrounding a block of redfish, the best-cooked piece of fish I’ve had all year and a dish far more emblematic of [chef Matt] Savastano’s abilities. The chef cuts a strapping fillet, tall and thick as a stud o-lineman, and gets its well-seasoned skin so crisp it crunched like a cracker. Plump, buttery mussels and sugar-bomb heirloom cherry tomatoes joined in, wanting to see what all the fuss was about and creating the effect of a minimalist bouillabaisse. No need for 17 specimens of seafood in this bowl; Savastano knows the value of one or two good ones, something chefs twice his age still haven’t learned.