Good News, Bad News for Stollenwerk
Craig LaBan uses his review of Michael Stollenwerk’s Fathom Seafood House to bestow a third bell on Stollenwerk’s Fish. LaBan is not nearly as kind to Fathom, in fact he’s positively salty about the overly-salted dishes at the Fishtown bar.
Had I stopped at the raw-bar platter of pristine Malpeques and fleshy Jersey littlenecks, I would have been just fine. The cold half lobster on ice – moist, sweet, and tender – was a deal for $10.
But too many of the cooked dishes that followed left me flat. The Thai steamed mussels were OK, but we’ve seen those at Little Fish (and everywhere else). The steamed littlenecks with chorizo were chewy and overcooked. The Jonah crab claws were inexplicably bland, especially considering they were bathed in garlic butter.
One Bell – Hit-or-miss
For Stollenwerk, Fishtown’s Fathom is the one that got away [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fathom Seafood House [Official Site]