Cantina Feliz Reviewed

Get Adam Erace a Landsdale/Doylestown regional rail schedule, then perhaps Erace wouldn’t be so stressed out about getting to Fort Washington and Tim Spinner’s Cantina Feliz. Once he was there he seemed to have a good enough time at the suburban answer to Distrito.

The black bass is one of the pricier entrées at $24.95, but featured a generous fillet marinated in garlic and parsley, perfectly grilled and draped over über-buttery Carolina rice fortified with poblano peppers, crab and corn — the richest seafood dish this side of crab au gratin. You wouldn’t guess the carnitas tacos would be lighter, and yet the trio of warm, housemade corn tortillas seemed to hover above their plate like air hockey pucks. On top: heaps of shredded pork butt Spinner brines, then confits for three hours in lard, orange juice, Coke and evaporated milk. Quite the mix, but the pork turned out impossibly tender, flecked with shards of crisp skin; the tacos leaked juices that splashed on the table into thyme-and-allspice-scented Rorschachs.

Please Feliz Me [City Paper]
Cantina Feliz [Official Site]

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  • Mattro

    Already one of the best restaurants in the ‘burbs. Great service and great food from a guy that’s cooked on the Iron Chef stage. Love this place.

  • Andrew

    Erace needs to chill on the whole “i’m afraid of the suburbs” meme. Who cares? I know its probably more of a literary device than anything, but big deal, you had to drive on 76. I do it every day.

    With that said, Cantina Feliz is a great place in the suburbs. The ceviches are great, and the black bass entree is wonderful. The tacos are average. But the entrees are awesome. I assume they need to do more accessible things like tacos, enchiladas, etc. because it is the suburbs. I love it, and will continue to go back.

  • blerg

    Is he the same guy who couldn’t find the Garces restaurant that’s, uh, directly next to 30th St. Station?

  • Skippy H. Bollweevil

    I was going to read the whole review to see how quickly I’d run into an arthouse movie reference or ennui-at-the-non-Passyunk-Ave-crowd dig; I didn’t need to go any further than “air hockey pucks” to know I was reading his usual clownish writing.

  • Leonid Brezhnev

    If Erace can’t reach your restaurant by skateboard or track bike then it might as well be in New Jersey.

  • http://www.thefeast.com CEF

    What’s with all the Erace-hate? Adam is one of our best, if not the best reviewer in town.

    I can’t remember any arthouse movie references in his writing, and he doesn’t suffer from the same masturbatory prose that many of his peers rely on when they don’t possess proper analytical skills or ingredient/technique knowledge.

    Erace knows his shit, and if you need proof, head to his market. It’s a destination for anyone that truly cares about great ingredients. That doesn’t happen by tossing darts and hoping you find the right product. He does his homework and eats like a maniac.

    As a critic, your job is more of a challenge than just writing news posts like we do at The Feast, Meal Ticket, or on Foobooz. You have to tell a story as well as report facts, and possess intimate knowledge of cuisines from around the world. Bear in mind he writes for like 34 publications at one time, too.

  • blerg

    No hate toward his food criticism from me. Just noticing that he seems to get confused/lost every time he ventures outside a 5-10 block radius of the city. It’s not an uncommon mentality among some city-dwellers.

  • Leonid Brezhnev

    Tight. Word.

  • lonna don

    I get the frustration, somewhat. If a restaurant is that good I want one in my basement too, so I can order room service. That being said if the food is great and cantina felize is, i will get in the car and go anywhere (and by the way its not that far from philly)

    Maybe they will film a movie Erace, Harold, and Kumar go to Cantina Felize. NPH is a foodie he can do a camio.