Get Adam Erace a Landsdale/Doylestown regional rail schedule, then perhaps Erace wouldn’t be so stressed out about getting to Fort Washington and Tim Spinner’s Cantina Feliz. Once he was there he seemed to have a good enough time at the suburban answer to Distrito.
The black bass is one of the pricier entrées at $24.95, but featured a generous fillet marinated in garlic and parsley, perfectly grilled and draped over über-buttery Carolina rice fortified with poblano peppers, crab and corn — the richest seafood dish this side of crab au gratin. You wouldn’t guess the carnitas tacos would be lighter, and yet the trio of warm, housemade corn tortillas seemed to hover above their plate like air hockey pucks. On top: heaps of shredded pork butt Spinner brines, then confits for three hours in lard, orange juice, Coke and evaporated milk. Quite the mix, but the pork turned out impossibly tender, flecked with shards of crisp skin; the tacos leaked juices that splashed on the table into thyme-and-allspice-scented Rorschachs.