Cajun Swagger at Catahoula

It isn’t perfect but Catahoula takes Craig LaBan back to his Times Picayune days.

[W]hen I put a spoon into Martin’s return-to-roots bowl of chicken-and-andouille gumbo at Catahoula, it flipped lights on my taste buds that hadn’t been lit since my own Louisiana days. The broth is darker than most northern cooks would ever dream of serving, a deep mahogany-red hue that comes from slow-roasting roux to the color of chocolate. And the darkness channels a roasty, nutty depth, allowing the earthy savor of smoked meat, tender chicken, and a prickly cayenne heat to rise through the murk like a bloom on the Bayou Teche.

A bowl of this gumbo alone is worth the visit to Catahoula, the new Queen Village gastropub named for Louisiana’s state dog.

Two Bells – Very Good

Catahoula [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Catahoula [Official Site]

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  • http://foobooz Mark

    I ate there once. Food was cold. Gumbo had cured processed meats, shrimp was gummy and chewy with greasy hot sauce, oysters were filled with disgusting heavy cream based sauce. I have eaten at many southern places including many in new Orleans I think this place is a major disappointment and I don’t understand all of the good reviews. I live in the neighborhood and was excited about the restaurant. Unfortunately after my dining experiences there I will never go back.

  • http://www.socialmediaphilanthropy.com Jeff Gibbard

    @Mark,

    As someone who has eaten there MANY times within one week I can say that I do not understand your poor review. The food is outstanding. The shrimp I had were not gummy but perfectly cooked and served along side perfectly seared cornbread with tangy N.O Style BBQ Sauce.

    The gumbo is Acadia Style and was not made with cured processed meats but instead Andouille sausage and succulent pulled pork.

    The oysters I had were plump and fried to a perfect crispy coating. The creamy sauce is a remoulade, a perfect accompaniment for fried foods.

    You may have had a bad experience, and you are entitled to your opinion, I just happen to think your opinion is dead wrong.

  • PhiladelphiaSpeaks

    @Mark

    Your review frankly sounds made up. Who knows why you’d do that.

    I’ve enjoyed the food there each of the 3 times I went there and I really like the bar.

  • http://foobooz Mark

    Opinion is not made-up still do not understand your stellar review.

  • http://none Big Momma Kieran

    O.K. Mark, I understand that your Catahoula experience wasn’t what you wanted. That having been said, your obsession with making sure everyone knows it despite the reviews seems a little “Invasion of the Body Snatchers”. You seem to think that you know better than everybody else what is a good experience.
    I would like to know what your definition of “processed meats” is. If it is cured, smoked and dried; than you’ve just described andouille.
    I would also like know what N.O. restaurants you’ve supposedly eaten in as you didn’t bother to back up your claim by naming them.
    Finally, you started with “I only ate there once” and later wrote “based on my dining experiences”. I can see why people think your opinion is made-up.