Craig LaBan heads to a Blue Bell shopping center to check out Radice, an Italian restaurant turning out refined rustic dishes.
There are plenty of unusual inspirations here – like skewers of amazingly soft sweetbreads, parsnips, and roasted pears streaked with dark pomegranate molasses. Or those wonderful pork ribs, fork-tender and garlicky from their brine, but also sweet, smoky, and spicy from a glaze of Granny Smith apples and rendered bacon (not to mention their crunchy cabbage slaw tossed in the sweet-tart of cider vinegar rife with anise and fennel).
But reinventing some familiar classics is part of what makes Radice special, reaffirming what Moonstruck fans have known all along – that [Chef Donna] Ewanciw is one of the region’s best unsung Italian chefs.
Three Bells – Excellent