Adam Erace weighs in on Adsum and finds the ambitious menu on target. And don’t forget Preston Eckman’s cocktails either.
Some of the best dishes at Adsum are the most straightforward: a sliver of cheddar astride Honeycrisp apple butter and a heavenly bacon-fat biscuit; tuna carpaccio that ate like Parma ham, electrified with chopped long hots, Granny Smith matchsticks and soy; or the dearly departed ricotta gnudi, expecting resurrection in squash form. I savored it under the awnings at Adsum, spearing each featherweight bite with seasonal comrades of sweet sautÃ©ed corn, heirloom tomatoes and leaves of licorice-y tarragon. The weather was not quite summer, not quite fall, a balmy breeze drifting through. Moments and dishes you don’t want to end.