Adsum on Target

Adam Erace weighs in on Adsum and finds the ambitious menu on target. And don’t forget Preston Eckman’s cocktails either.

Some of the best dishes at Adsum are the most straightforward: a sliver of cheddar astride Honeycrisp apple butter and a heavenly bacon-fat biscuit; tuna carpaccio that ate like Parma ham, electrified with chopped long hots, Granny Smith matchsticks and soy; or the dearly departed ricotta gnudi, expecting resurrection in squash form. I savored it under the awnings at Adsum, spearing each featherweight bite with seasonal comrades of sweet sautéed corn, heirloom tomatoes and leaves of licorice-y tarragon. The weather was not quite summer, not quite fall, a balmy breeze drifting through. Moments and dishes you don’t want to end.

From the Latin [City Paper]
Adsum [Official Site]

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  • Arthur

    Adam Erace is to food reviewing as the buffalo bills are to football. I actually like Adsum but his positive review becomes a negative in my book.

  • barryg

    Arthur, I disagree, I think he is head and shoulders above any other reviewer in the free weeklies. Most of them write on a high school level (or worse if you include the South Philly Review). The quality of his writing is just a shade below, or maybe equal to, LaBan and Nichols. I also happen to agree with his tastes more often than not.

  • barryg

    Plus, he is funny.