No Changes Necessary at Mr. Martino’s

AECRIAG13A

Craig LaBan visits the weekend-only Mr. Martino’s on East Passyunk and finds a restaurant reluctant for a moment in the foodie sun but one that does turn out simple pleasures.

The simple clarity of Maria’s best dishes rang like a soulful ping on my taste buds. The pasta and bean soup was an ode to pure peasant textures, the soft white beans against the chew of pasta rings, and a bean broth lit with the piney herbaceousness of panfried rosemary.

House-baked wedges of ricotta cheese are one of the standby starters, a cold appetizer that disappears no matter which garnish comes on top – string beans and juicy grape tomatoes tossed in herby vinaigrette, or chewy rounds of Claudio’s soppressatta and oil-cured olives.

Two Bells – Very Good

Mr. Martino’s [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Be respectful of our online community and contribute to an engaging conversation. We reserve the right to ban impersonators and remove comments that contain personal attacks, threats, or profanity, or are flat-out offensive. By posting here, you are permitting Philadelphia magazine and Metro Corp. to edit and republish your comment in all media.