Craig LaBan enjoys Sampan despite some sharp criticisms for chef Michael Schulson’s Asian fusion eatery.
For every gripe, though, there were more dishes that soared. A pair of Schulson standards – the Thai-glazed chicken wings and those silky edamame dumplings – are still keepers. The “satay” grill also turned out some memorable skewers – succulent tubes of miso-glazed king crab; amazingly tender lamb chops shined in yakitori; and some gingery rolls of butter-soft short rib, marinated in honey and gochujang, with a mince of kimchi on top, that were among the best updates to Korean flavors I’ve tasted.
Two Bells – Very Good