Adam Erace isÂ a bit dissapointed that chef/ownerÂ Han Chiang didn’t live up to his tempestuous reputation but he had no complaints about Han Dynasty’s Sichuan cuisine.
The fire starts with a spark, in this case the seashell-shaped dumplings made fresh daily. The supple sesame-freckled pork-and-cabbage purses only earn a 4 on Chiangâ€™s spice scale, but a red aurora of chili oilâ€”neutral oil-infused with red pepper, nutmeg, star anise and other secretsâ€”is doing its thing while you eat on blissfully, thinking, this isnâ€™t hot at all. Halfway through, youâ€™re feeling it. Iâ€™m feeling it. And itâ€™s not uncomfortable by any measure. The heat was less angry assault, more plaid blankets and fireside brandies at your hunting estate in the English countryside. Warm, comforting.