It’s David Snyder’s last review for City Paper and he makes it a good one as he visits Michael Schulson’s Sampan.
Instead of making Asian dishes accessible by dumbing things down, Schulson and executive chef Leo Forneas head in the opposite direction â€” more flavor. The results are often delicate and beautiful. A saffron/uni aioli added a genteel richness to sweet shrimp sashimi, while pickled papaya and thin-sliced finger chilies lent soft warmth. Smoky suzuki is bathed in ice, soy and yuzu and placed atop bright pomelo with kisses of Chinese mustard and ginger. The kitchen cradles rock shrimp in wonton taco shells along with blood oranges, pickled shallots and creamy avocado.